![]() ![]() I’m after some guidance/ opinion please on my thoughts on my proposed ‘under rafter’ arrangement ? – (I’m thinking I need all of this to brace everything up but what do I know. When you gain access this way, you have two choice of how to connect trusses or rafters to the walls. It may be possible to gain access to the roof-to-wall connection by removing the soffit panels. I’m thinking a short upper wall plate which takes the hips and two rafters and a longer bottom wall plate which takes a number of horizontal rafters which both brace? and give me something to screw the flat ceiling onto. Consequently, the masonry screws used to connect to the sides of the bond beam should be at least 2-3/4 long. The next drawing shows my thoughts as to what “under” rafters I could put in and the last drawing shows a closeup of what rafters to put in. I am lacking detail of what rafters to put in to create this flat roof section within my plans which could have had more detail. My extension has a slanted ceiling section and then it goes flat higher up. Rafters are beams that run from the peak of the roof to the top plate of the supporting walls. ![]() A collar tie is a tension tie in the upper third of opposing gable rafters that is intended to resist rafter separation from the ridge beam during periods of unbalanced loads, such as that caused by wind uplift, or unbalanced roof loads from snow. The first attached line sketch “top rafters” shows the general idea of the ‘top’ roof rafters. 'Collar ties' are defined in the International Residential Code (IRC) in Section R802.4. Many Thanks noseall - that makes sense, when you say temporary joist across the plates am I right in thinking I’m wanting to get the timber frame inner AND roof on before outer brick (as opposed to build the inner to wall plate level and outer brick to below eaves put roof on and finish brickwork)īut I’m glad you said “joisted roof” because that takes me back to one of my original concerns ! So if I can call on your patience yet again please because here goes.:. Sorry if I don’t explain well but this whole area of roofing is one that I am least confident with ! Thanks again for any help given. Does that sound right ? and if so any recommendations as to what machine to use as I’m thinking I’m removing a foot or so wide strip at an angleĢ) In practice I’m thinking when coming to the roof I would be doing this chasing and putting this rafter in first along with the hips and then putting in the other jack rafters – sound about right?ģ)Ěny thoughts on whether it would be useful to make this rafter any thicker than the others to assist attaching flashing/whatever at the interface to existing wall My existing exterior wall has harling on it approx 10-15mm thick over blockwork.ġ) when attaching the rafter labelled “Interface between this rafter…” in the sketch I’m believing I have to chase out an area of the harling the depth of the rafter plus some distance above it to put in lead flashing. Nail horizontal 2- x 4-inch or 2- x 6-inch rafter ties to the rafters and top plates at both ends of the roof. ![]() My questions relate refer to around the area marked “Interface between this rafter and existing wall” in the attached sketch please. Place the rafters diagonally so they meet at a ridge board at the peak of the roof. ![]()
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